Custom made suits are better than ready-made suits in so many ways, but sometimes they are worse—when the tailor has no taste. So many skilled craftsmen work well with their hands, but have no sense of style, or worse yet, think they do. In the case of many custom tailors, they might ask you whether you want two button or three button, double or single breasted, but nothing of a conceptual nature.
That’s not the case at Kozinn+Sons Merchant Tailors where we are defining your fashion viewpoint throughout the purchasing process. Through fabric selection, fit, garment design and detailing, we are conscious of the message the clothing is intended to convey.
Frankly, this is a challenge for many clients. Because if clothing is a form of non verbal communication, how does one learn the language, the vocabulary and the slang? There is no Rosetta Stone for the language of clothing!
In my viewpoint, there are only three basic fashion viewpoints which I describe as follows:
Traditional—clothing which emphasizes heritage and authenticity and, therefore, the pedigree of the wearer. Ralph Lauren is the master of this genre. The gentleman at left exemplifies the traditional style of dressing.
Note the following details-- strong stripe, highly fitted, dramatic pocket square, solid tie all of which convey the illustrious heritage of British dressing, ie. appropriate to the "upper class", to the "manor born." I sometimes call this style, "men dressing for other men" because most women could care less about the snobby details that the traditional dresser holds dear. (By the way, I am a traditional dresser!)
Fashionable—clothing which is sexy and trendy and, by extension, demonstrates the cleverness of the wearer. For many years, Giorgio Armani was the leader here. The gentleman at left is our fashionable gent for today.
Note these details-- modern, shorter jacket, narrow trousers, lighter colored suit all adding up to a look which is younger, trendier and less about business.
The fashionable dresser is not concerned that what he is wearing might be out of style in a few years. In fact, he intends to be ahead of the curve and move on to something else before everyone else notices that styles have changed.
Note these details-- quieter stripe, straighter cut, simple pocket square, all adding up to a dignified look without any showiness.
The conservative man does not want to walk into a room and have everyone compliment him on how beautiful his clothing is. He hopes to fit in to the environment or situation.
(By the way, the images shown in this article are all friends of Kozinn+Sons who agreed to pose for us gratis. Click on the photos if you'd like to view them in greater detail.)
Of course, it is possible to tastefully blend two of the points of view together because, after all, men can have complex natures. However, the blend works best when fashionable or traditional looks are made more conservative. Fashionable and traditional looks can not of themselves be blended together because they are at opposite ends of the spectrum. In fact, one way I would define "bad taste" is the attempt to do this.
At Kozinn+Sons, we will be guided by your instincts as you select cloths, styles and details and we won't be shy in pointing out anything that seems contradictory to your fashion viewpoint. After all, we want your clothing to be as articulate as you are!