Don’t Let Moths Destroy Your Custom Suits!

There is an under the radar epidemic that seems to me as severe as the bed bug scare—Moths!  Every week, a distressed client comes in to our workrooms with a wonderful custom suit of ours that has numerous holes created by moths.  A few clients have had dozens of garments ruined, costing them tens of thousands of dollars in replacement costs.  English Heritage, the British preservation organization, says that moths have doubled in the UK in the past five years. The charity has even discovered a new species feeding on the ancient fabrics under their care.

I know you have a lot of things to worry about in your life, but, I’d hate to see your custom clothing victimized by these prolific pests.

From my experience, here is the evidence of a moth attack:

  1. The affected garment has not been worn for months, and
  2.  The holes are oval shaped

          Typical moth holes in jacket sleeve

Adult moths do not have mouths so holes in clothes are actually made from moth larvae!  See below:

                       Moth cocoons within wool fibers.

So, you don’t have to actually see winged moths to know you have a problem!
Surprisingly, many clients deny that they have a moth problem because of a silly stigma that it’s  a sign of poor hygiene.  Of course, this is not the case.  In fact, I just had my own moth incident for the first time, finding a winter suit I hadn’t worn in six months destroyed by moths.  (I know what you’re thinking—big deal, Andy can just make himself another suit. But I loved that suit, and the cloth is sold out!)

In any event, we try to help to fix the moth holes as best we can, but it isn’t easy.  The ideal solution is to replace the damaged part with a new piece cut from the same cloth.  If the hole is small enough the fabric can also be woven by a professional reweaver.  These solutions usually cost about $250 to $500..  A less expensive alternative is to put a seam in the damaged area, but this is only practical of it’s in a less prominent area of the garment.

How can you prevent moths from becoming a problem in the first place?

  • Moths are mostly drawn to the human sweat, hair and body oil that are left on clothing, particularly those made out of natural fibres (wool, feathers, fur, silk). Therefore, it's important to dry clean your clothes before you store them - especially if you are putting them away for a long period of time.
  • Store clothes in an air-tight bag or plastic container – not cardboard boxes as moths can chew through these
  • Vacuum regularly - moths can lay eggs in carpets too.
  • Keep your wardrobe ventilated as moths are attracted to warm, humid spaces.

What do you do if you know you have a moth problem?

  1. You can try moth balls.  They work, but we are all familiar with their awful smell.
  2. You can call a pest control specialist. I have a good friend in the business, that I can recommend if you contact me.
  3. My same friend suggests using a product that is very effective and can be purchased on Amazon called Vapona, https://www.amazon.com/Nuvan-Prostrips-Vapona-Insect-Control/dp/B004HFNVIW But, the product is toxic and should not be used if you have pets or small children that could come in contact with it.

Have you ever had a moth problem yourself and, if so, how did you handle it?

Andy Kozinn
President
Kozinn+Sons Merchant Tailors
22 west 32nd Street, 5th Floor
New York NY 10001
212-643-1916
www.kozinntailors.com
[email protected]

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Suits That Wear Like Iron

Years ago, in the days before the introduction of superfine wools, one of the greatest attributes a suit could have was the strength and durability of its cloth.  This was achieved by weaving the cloth with more “picks and ends”, making it more solid and, therefore, stronger. The additional weight would be offset by a “hard finish” which made the cloth smooth and wearable for much of the year.  These “Wear Like Iron” cloths are still produced by a number of fine English mills.  And, they are, in fact, the cloths most Savile Row tailors prefer.

Pictured below are our “Wear Like Iron” collections:

books of fabrics for custom made suits

 

Each collection has a unique point of view.    The Worsted Alsport from Hardy Minnis has  a country flair; the Heritage Twist from Standeven and the High Twist from Huddersfield Textiles have a vintage, retro look, like out of a 30’s movie. (We use these cloths often for theatrical productions.) And, the other four collections have many blues and greys for business wear.  These cloths range in weight from 11 to 14 oz per yard.  They range in price for 2-piece custom suits from $2395 to $2995.

Could you use a suit that “Wears Like Iron?”

With appreciation always,

Andy Kozinn
President
Kozinn+Sons Merchant Tailors
22 west 32nd Street, 5th Floor
New York NY 10001
212-643-1916
www.kozinntailors.com
[email protected]

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Introducing The All-American Trouser

Not only is the trouser custom made in the United States.  But the cloth is also woven in the United States!

It’s been many, many years since Kozinn+Sons has featured cloths woven in the USA.. That’s because there were practically no quality cloths woven here.  That is, thankfully, changing.  The American Woolen Company in Stafford Springs, Connecticut, is a start up, but one with a impressive heritage.  You can read more about this dynamic enterprise in this NPR story http://wnpr.org/post/why-banker-re-opening-textile-mill-connecticut

Pictured below are five beautiful cloths we have from American Woolen for this Fall:

Custom Pants fabrics

Fabrics 6518 (rust twill), 6519 (blue twill) and 6520 (brown/blue check) are 95% wool and 5 % cashmere; Fabrics 6521(medium grey) and 6522 (Prince of Wales plaid) are 100% wool.  All are lightweight flannels that are perfect for Fall and Winter wear.

Regularly, custom trousers in these American Woolen cloths will be $495.  As an introductory offer (through January 31, 2018 only), we will make them for you for just $395 each, a savings of $100 per trouser!

If we’ve made custom trousers for you in the past, you can simply e-mail or phone us with your order.  Of course, we would love for you to come for a fitting once the trousers are made.

This is all good news don’t you think?

With appreciation always,

Andy Kozinn
President
Kozinn+Sons Merchant Tailors
22 west 32nd Street, 5th Floor
New York NY 10001
212-643-1916
www.kozinntailors.com
[email protected]

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Protect Your Suit Coat From Identity Theft

Introducing “X-Shield,” an inside jacket pocket which protects your body and your credit cards!

X-Shield is a copper fiber material which is surprisingly soft and pliable. When we make one of your inside jacket pockets from this material, X-Shield protects the credit cards in your wallet from wireless identity theft. It can also shield your body from your cell phone’s electromagnetic radiation.

 

X-Shield pocketX Shield logo

Every credit card carries a radio frequency identification chip which contains certain personal information.  Apparently, there are new techniques for capturing these radio signals and effectively cloning your credit card.  The fibers in the X-Shield prevent radio signals from penetrating your suit jacket pocket and reaching your credit cards.

And, while the type of electromagnetic radiation emitted by a cell phone has not been shown to be harmful, it is absorbed by your body.  If nothing else, the X-Shield pocketing will keep the heat generated by your phone away from your body.

I know you’ve got a hundred things to worry about, but I thought this X-Shield was worthy of your consideration.

We cannot retrofit existing suit pockets, however, we can make your new custom jackets with an X-Shield pocket for just $25 extra per pocket.

Do you think this is worth doing?

Andy Kozinn
President
Kozinn+Sons Merchant Tailors
22 west 32nd Street, 5th Floor
New York NY 10001
212-643-1916
www.kozinntailors.com
[email protected]

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A Gentleman’s Guide to Business Casual

Once upon a time, dressing for work was simple.

Blue-Collar-vs.-White-Collar

There were blue collar workers and white collar workers.  Every blue collar worker dreamed of the day his son could go to college and become a white collar worker.  The white collar signified someone with a college degree, managerial authority and a higher rank in society's pecking order.

And the white collar meant custom suit and tie, leather shoes, an overcoat and a hat.  The shirt was clean, the suit pressed and the shoes shined.

Now, in the jargon of today, there is a new paradigm as illustrated below:

Suit, Custom and Casual wear

You can no longer judge a book by its cover.  Our Casual man above would have been considered "a bum" years ago.  Now he just might be may be a billionaire tech entrepreneur!  I think we can all agree that the Business Formal guy still looks successful and the Smart Casual fellow looks pretty sharp. The Business guy is really the same look as the formal guy, just without a suit coat.  It all makes sense so far.

Left out in the cold is the Business Casual guy.  What is he? A copier salesman? A business school student? A clerk in a store?  In my opinion, he looks lost.  And yet it's the way most men work today in an office environment.

He looks lost because he doesn't have the nerve to say, "Screw you," which is what the Casual guy is really saying to the world.  Nor does he have enough of the white collar elements that communicate success.  Our Smart Casual guy, on the other hand,  has on a nice jacket, a tie, and a pocket square.   The jeans make a statement of creativity.  But, the jacket, tie and pocket square give him credibility.  Our Business guy has on a good dress shirt, a silk tie and good wool trousers.  They also give him credibility.

So what's the lesson? The full blown suit and tie are still the benchmark of male authority and credibility.  Consider what every sportscaster, talk show host and politician wears. There's a good reason it's still a suit and tie.

However, if you feel it's too much for your workplace culture, pare it down, but don't lose the essence of it.  Make sure you have a good number of the elements  of the Business Formal look to convey your appreciation for quality and style.

Never skimp on your shoes, shirts and trousers.  If you like to wear jeans, buy a quality sport coat to go with it.  If you're not going to wear  a tie, add a pocket square to your coat. Consider a knit tie, or a tie that's not silk-- a wool or cotton tie.

Bottom line: If you don't put some effort into the way you dress you may just end up looking like you're neither white collar or blue collar, just a cog in the wheel.  And, no one wants that for himself or his  son.

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